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September 20, 2009
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Color Pencil Tutorial by The-Lady-of-Kuo Color Pencil Tutorial by The-Lady-of-Kuo
I've been asked when making my pencil works how I achieve the look that I do. I know photoshop tutorials have helped me, so I thought I'd give back, so to speak, and make a tutorial of my own. I prefer Prismacolor pencils, as their high clay content makes them perfect for blending colors together. Cheap stuff like crayola will be harder to achieve this effect with, but it can still do it, to a degree.

This is, of course, not the only way to use color pencils, or even the right way necessarily. It's just the way I do it.

I used to use black for shadows, then one day started using colors for shadows, and it makes a big difference!
Here's one from when I used black to shade:


And these are drawings I made using the method in my tutorial:




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:iconastrikos:
Astrikos Featured By Owner Feb 7, 2013   General Artist
Your wonderful tutorial has been featured here
Consider giving the article a :+fav: :heart:
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:icondepressedmuch:
Depressedmuch Featured By Owner Apr 6, 2012  Hobbyist Digital Artist
Although you are actually onto the rel reason why there is a difference in the blending capacities of crayola, prismacolor and just about every colored pencil on the market, it is due to the hardness of the pencil's crayon. All colored pencils have a wax as the basis of their 'lead' or color stick, this is what gives the colored pencil such a smooth lay-down on the paper. So if you increase the clay content of a colored pencil, you don't actually make it smoother, instead, you make it behave more like a graphite pencil, which is what some people prefer. Look at some Prismacolor verithin for an example of this. In the case of particularly soft pencils, the type of wax and the pigment densities are what make a pencil softer. The more pigment a pencil has, the softer it is. So Derwent Coloursofts are very pigment-rich, and also some of the softest and most pastel-like pencils on the market. Also, if you want to be able to get smooth gradations without absolutely burnishing your drawing to hell, try to use a sharper point on a finer toothed paper, like marker pad. Something with a very fine texture, and a moderately low weight would probably work well.
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:iconwatchamadoodle:
WatchaMaDoodle Featured By Owner Sep 29, 2011  Student General Artist
what a cool tutorial! thanks for this. :la:
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:iconmarijke-rose:
Marijke-Rose Featured By Owner Feb 21, 2011  Hobbyist General Artist
Wow, very insightful tut! You actually do almost the exact same thing I did with my traditionally coloured art (though, I was using crayons). Since I've had a few people ask how I do it, is it alright if I just link them to your tut?
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:iconthe-lady-of-kuo:
The-Lady-of-Kuo Featured By Owner Mar 8, 2011
Thanks! And yes, you can link to it. :)
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:iconmarijke-rose:
Marijke-Rose Featured By Owner Mar 8, 2011  Hobbyist General Artist
Thank you!
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:iconflashsprites:
FlashSprites Featured By Owner Nov 11, 2010
Man, You don't know how clean this looks.
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:iconjadethepredator:
JadeThePredator Featured By Owner Oct 19, 2009  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Wow, that's really helpful. O_O Now if only I had the patience for doing such things... I bet my art would look phenominal... :cries:
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:iconthe-lady-of-kuo:
The-Lady-of-Kuo Featured By Owner Oct 20, 2009
Ha ha, thanks! I think your art is phenomenal already, personally :P
Reply
:iconjadethepredator:
JadeThePredator Featured By Owner Oct 22, 2009  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Aww, thanks! But thanks to you and a couple other people who use colors to shade and highlight, I made a picture that I think looks pretty damn good! :D [link] If you are interested in seeing. It's nothing EPIC, but it's a start in the right direction, I believe.
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